Selvaggio Blu is an amazing multi-day journey in Sardinia, beautifully mixing climbing and trekking across this stunningly wild coastline. This adventure offers breathtaking views and unique encounters with nature, making it an unforgettable experience. Our Guide, Tania Noakes, specializes in this captivating route and shares her extensive depth and breadth of experience, ensuring that you not only enjoy the physical challenge but also learn about the rich history and ecology of the area. Join us for an adventure that promises to be both exhilarating and enlightening!
Day 1 & 2:
Distance: 4km Time: 4-5hrs Ascent: 300m Descent: 300m
We take a transfer from the hotel to the end of the road south out of Cala Gonone which finishes at the beautiful little beach of Cala Fuili.
The aim of today is to adjust to the demanding limestone terrain of the Supramonte and practise our abseiling skills so that we can be confident that everyone is ready to enjoy the adventure ahead.
We follow the path towards Cala Luna before heading up and away from the coast towards a restored Shepherds hut and the entry point for the dry canyon of Codula Fuili. We get spectacular views south of the coastline that the Selvaggio Blu trek traverses- its a great way to orientate ourselves and get an idea of where our journey will take us.
Once we entre the canyon we have five abseils to complete before returning to the beach and our starting point. They build in length and difficulty and give a great progression before the final two 20m abseils.
Once we return to the beach you can enjoy a swim and rest on the before or head directly back to Cala Gonone. From the beach at Fuili it is about an hours walk back to the town, following the coastal road at first and then along the beaches just south of the town.
For the Selvaggio Blu we will travel independent with only one or at most two resupply drops and no pickups. There are four nights on the trail, I always stay at the rustic bar-restaurant camping area at the back of Cala Sisine for the last night- it’s a great final night on the trail.
Distance: 12km Time: 9hrs Ascent: 1200m Descent: 1200m
We take an early breakfast before getting a transfer from Cala Gonone to Pedra Longa where we start our journey. The travel time is about an hour and fifteen minutes, until finally the road plunges steeply down to the iconic and photogenic pinnacle that is Pedra Longa.
Today is a long but enjoyable and relatively non-technical day except for a short downclimb into a ravine and ascent of the other side. The descent is aided by a tree which forms a natural ladder to breach a steep section of cliff. It has been reinforced by juniper wood and forms one of the famous “Iscalas” that shepherds used as shortcuts to aid their work tending their animals.
The terrain is very three dimensional and the rock underfoot, very demanding, sometimes sharp and challenging for your balance. When we arrive at our bivouac in a small clearing close to the rocky inlet of Porta Pedrosu we have more than earned our rest and evening meal. Just before we reach camp itself, if the sea state allows, there is the opportunity for a very welcome and refreshing swim before we made the final short ascent to the bivouac itself.
Tonight we will use one of our dehydrated evening meals and breakfast and be independent of outside support.
Distance: 12km Time: 8.5hrs Ascent: 1300m Descent: 1300m
Today is big and steep but worth every bit of effort, and with terrain that is just a little bit easier underfoot to negotiate than the first day. We find juniper branches at well-placed points to aid our progression, some incredible views from the cliff tops north along the Orosei coastline... and towards the rest of the trail. Towards the end of the morning we climb steadily towards Punta Salinas which overlooks the famous Goloritz beach itself. High on the plateau at an old shepherds hut we will take a moment to have some lunch before plunging down into the shaded ravine which leads to the beach. Part way down to the beach we will cache our rucksacks, because the trail itself does not continue past the beach but reascend to the plateau rim through a breche called “Boladinas”.
Normally we have enough time to have a short pause and swim here but since the beach was granted UNESCO world heritage status it has become very popular and we will encounter other people at this point on the trail.
From the beach, we reascend to our rucksacks, put our harnesses and helmets on and head towards the start of the Boladinas gully that leads to Piredda and our Bivouac for the night. To gain the woods above we have two short technical sections of climbing, where we will use the rope. The first is strenuous and the second is more delicate, and once above these more technical sections it is about a steady hour of walking to get to camp.
The day is not over when we get to camp though! We need part of the group to guard the camp from wandering pigs and part of the team will come with me to meet our resupply jeep- bringing food and water for the next two days of the trek. It is about 15minutes walk to where we meet the jeep and then the same to return to the bivouac.
Tonight Tania will cook a meal made with fresh local Sardinian specialities, taking account of the dietary requirements of the group.
Distance: 8.5km Time: 6hrs Ascent: 450m Descent: 1050m
Todays route is shorter but much more technical and will take us from our bivouac at Su Tasaru to Bacu Padente.
We start with a short and stead ascent to gain a long crestline which we then follow as it gradually starts to redescend towards the sea. We have great views both up and down the coastline and the walking is not too complicated to begin with. Finally, we start to descend more steeply and after negotiating a section of awkward scree we put our harnesses and helmets on ready for some of the most complicated and exposed parts of the whole trail.
There is a short downclimb before the terrain drops even more steeply through the trees towards the ever-closer sea below. The trees helps our progress but we have to be very careful with our movement because there is a lot of lose rock and stones in this section. Finally we arrive at the first of several abseils during the day, which brings us abruptly and dramatically onto a shelf of colourful caves which allow us to continue progress northwards more easily.
An unlikely ledge allows us to gain the sea again at Bacu Mudaloru where we take a pause for a refreshing swim and some lunch. Today we have a bit more time for longer breaks and the technical sections give plenty of short rests too. After lunch we continue, first ascending the base of Bacu Mudaloru to gain an old charcoal makers trail that leads north along the coast. The trail weaves along the hanging wood line, broken by short sections where we either need to balance carefully, scramble using our hands or make another abseil, passing numerous large caves which, when the weather is bad, make excellent bivouac spots. Late afternoon we reach our incredible bivouac spot, perched in a cave directly above the sea. Truly an unforgettable place to spend the night; but also inaccessible so tonight we are again independent of support.
Distance: 10km Time: 7hrs Ascent: 800m Descent: 800m
Today we abseil directly from our bivouac into the base of Bacu Padente and then start to reascend the far side of the re-entrant towards a hidden charcoal makers path. The terrain is varied and interesting and at times steep, so we will take a few short rests to soak up the view and let our legs recover before we gain a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Cala Biriola far below. Continuing gentle uphill we pass the tourist path to Biriola before gaining a small shepherds hut where we put our harness and helmets on. To gain the large Biriola woods below we have to weave through some interesting rock features and then make several long abseils... the first of our 40m abseils.
Once in the woods we descend first to a charcoal makers circle before much easier walking traversing the woods at roughly mid-height and passing into the Oronorru woods by a passage cut our from the cliff face.
There is, of course, a great pace for us to have our lunch, before we continue on, traversing the site of a massive rockfall that happened in 2017 and swept part of the wood into the sea below- dramatically demonstrating this changing natural environment. Finally there are two short sections of easy climbing, now equipped as a via ferrata, before another long and exposed abseil takes us into the wood leading to Cala Sisine. The last abseil of the day is not far away and is an enjoyable and fitting end to this spectacular and famous trail.
Tonight we camp at the rustic bar restaurant behind the beach of Cala Sisine and they provide a wonderful meal of local seafood and other specialities according to our dietary requirements.
Distance: 12km Time: 4.5hrs Ascent: 650m Descent: 650m
After an Italian breakfast at the Cala Sisine campsite we leave, passing the beach and ascending into the woods directly to the north. We have a mixture of sun and shade for our ascent, following a series of zig-zags towards the limestone plateau above. The path is much more regular underfoot, and for the first time we can experience more easy walking where you can find a rhythm and look about you and enjoy the views whilst you do.
We need to gain about 600m, which we do steadily, sometimes in dense woodland and sometimes following carbon makers trails until we gain a large and beautifully restored shepherds hut. We take a pause and enjoy the view, our final climb is almost over, just 15 minutes more and we crest the plateau rim and see the whole of Codula Luna unfurl below us. We pick up and follow a very distinct and well preserved old mule track that undulates across the plateau before starting to descend towards Cala Luna itself.
From that point onwards it is almost all in descent, the walking much more straightforward and less demanding, before finally we gain the beach at Cala Luna. There is a bar/restaurant behind the beach itself where we can buy refreshments before swimming, or resting before we get the tourist boat (if the seas state permits) back to Cala Gonone. Normally we are back in Cala Gonone for the middle of the afternoon.
After a wonderful adventure we enjoy a farewell meal departing from Olbia.
Journey time to Obia 1.5hrs
Group Equipment (provided by Tania)
Bivouac Tarp and bungees.
Stove, Coffee pot, Cooking equipment and gas cannisters.
Ropes: 40m single weight plus 40m static pull line.
First Aid Kit.
Sat Phone emergency communications.
Individual Equipment required
Trekking shoes or boots.
Rucksack, at least 40Ltr, ideally with a floating lid so that it can expand easily for more space.
Sleeping bag (light 2 season is adequate)
Sleeping pad or matt.
Bivouac bag, waterproof and breathable ideally with mosquito net; or light weight tent.
Silk or cotton liner- some nights may be warm (depending on the weather), so it is useful to have the option of just using a liner and bivi bag.
Helmet, Climbing Harness, Belay Device, 2x Locking Karabiners and 120cm sling or Petzl connect style lanyard for abseiling (Can be hired from Guide if arranged in advance)
Mountain Clothing:
Goretex (or equivalent) lightweight and waterproof Jacket
Warm layer- fleece or light duvet for evening.
Trekking trousers
Shorts
2 x trekking socks (that cover the ankle) and underwear
Something to swim in- I use shorts and sports bra type top (double purpose)
Non-cotton wicking trekking -shirt
Light weight long sleeved trekking Shirt- to cover my arms in evening if there are mosquitos.
I also take a thin wind-proof jacket but the waterproof can double as this.
Buff and thin contact gloves- probably won’t use these at this time of year but things could change.
Other Essential Equipment:
Lightweight LED head torch and replacement battery (or batteries)
Sunhat with wide brim.
Sunglasses
Sunscreen- ideally waterproof and sweat resistant. Lip protection with sunblock and moisturiser.
Mosquito repellent and after-bite cream.
Small personal first aid kit- small plasters for cuts, blister treatment kit, antiseptic wipes and pain-relief for mild headaches, personal medicine. Just a little for your personal non-serious use.
The guide will carry a more comprehensive first aid kit.
Wash kit- pack as light as you can. I carry a small pack towel, biodegradable small soap, toothbrush and travel toothpaste, small deodorant.
A small packet of wet-wipes and sanitizer gel is a good idea.
2 litre water carrying capacity. Either bottle or hydration sack.
Trekking poles- optional but if you like using them for some sections of the trail they will be useful.
Plastic bowl and mug and camping KFS (Knife/Fork/Spoon)
Dehydrated food- 2 x evening meals and 2 x breakfast. For the bivouac on the first and third night on trek. (One evening meal and one breakfast must be carried with you when we start the trek, One evening meal and one breakfast must be given to me to place with the food and water resupply that will join us on night two of the trek)
I recommend Firepot⃰ meals which can be ordered on their website at www.firepot.com
⃰This is because they produce and excellent range of very tasty meals and cater for most food preferences and dietary restrictions and allergies/intolerances. In my opinion they come across as a reasonably ethical company, one that is trying to reduce their waste products and impact on the environment. They are also a UK based company.
Snacks and any special energy extras that you like having with you but only a little required for each day as I will organise a reasonable lunch which will include salami, cheese or tuna plus various chopped vegetables and some fruit (depending on the dietary requirements of the group). Take two days worth of snack with you at the start of the trek and two days worth of snacks can be placed with the food and water resupply that will join us on the evening of night two.